Not only did we have a week’s holiday in the Lake District this summer but we also went to the Peak District for a week. I have already told you about the sad start to this break – the death of my mother-in-law on the day of our arrival. We spent the first full day of our holiday with my brother-in-law but after that there wasn’t anything else to do but wait until we were told by the Coroner that we could arrange the funeral.
We thought we might as well stay in the Peaks and not abandon our holiday. If Chris (my brother-in-law) needed us we would be close at hand. We thought we would find comfort in walking in this beautiful part of the country.
After lunch on Saturday 15th August we drove to the village of Wetton in Staffordshire from where we intended to walk along the Manifold Valley. We drove along a very scenic road en route to Wetton.
The Roaches and Hen Cloud (the nearest hill) seen from the road.
Another view of The Roaches. The Rocks look like spikes on the spine of a dinosaur.
We could just see the Welsh hills on the far horizon beyond the flat Cheshire Plain.
We got to Wetton and found the car park near the centre of the village. The buildings and houses in the village are mainly made of stone and the church, which was built in the 14th century has an exterior staircase to the belfrey which contains six bells. The Royal Oak pub, which owns a camping field next to the car park is also the venue for the World Toe Wrestling Championships which began in the 1970’s!
One of the buildings of Wetton.
Another of those squash stiles which let tall and/or thin people through but not livestock or short people with generously proportioned legs etc.
Richard and I crossed this field which sloped steeply down into the deep valley of the River Manifold.
There were many hazards.
A colourful seed-head – probably Hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium). We also saw a number of Betony (Stachys officinalis) flowers but none of my photos were any good.
The route down to the river valley
At the bottom of the field we crossed a couple of stiles and entered a wood.
Path through the wood
Lots of invasive Rhododendron seedlings
Steps up through the woods
Yet more steps! Gasp! Puff!
We were going to see Thor’s Cave.
Thor’s Cave
This is a Karst Cave i.e. it was formed from the dissolution of soluble limestone. The entrance is just over 18m up on the hillside and the opening is a symmetrical arch, 7.5m wide and 10m high. I don’t think there is any connection between this cave and the god Thor; the name probably derives from the word ‘tor’ meaning a hill or rocky peak. I was most disappointed to find that I didn’t have the ability to climb up to the entrance from the path. I had to wait outside while Richard explored inside.
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You can see minute-me waving at Richard in one of the photos above. This will give you some idea of the size of the cave.
This is what the entrance to the cave looks like from the path below.
While Richard enjoyed himself in the cave, I kept myself busy looking for things to photograph outside.
Harebells (Campanula rotundifolia) growing out of a crevice in the stone.
A tiny Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes).
Jacob’s-ladder (Polemonium caeruleum)
I saw another cave entrance below us.
After Richard emerged from the cave we walked back down to the valley-floor.
Lots of different plants grew in the scree and rocks of the river-bed alongside the path. There were many wild raspberry canes with ripe fruit but again my camera failed to focus on them.
Meadow Crane’s-bill (Geranium pratense) next to the path.
I’m including another photo of these flowers because I like them! You can see that the seed-heads look a little bit like crane’s heads.
The large leaves of Butterbur (Petasites hybridus). Also known as Wild Rhubarb, the heart-shaped leaves can be up to 1m/3 ft across.
This Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) was so strongly and beautifully scented!
Common Knapweed (Centaurea nigra)
Wild flowers
Wild flowers
The path we were walking along was the former Leek and Manifold Light Railway line. There had even been a station at Thor’s Cave!
This also explains all the well-made steps up to the cave.
View of a hill from the path.
Meadow Vetchling (Lathyrus pratensis)
Red Campion (Silene dioica) and Bramble (Rubus fruticosus agg.)
More Meadowsweet.
Ripening Hazel nuts (Corylus avellana)
The pretty flowers of the terribly invasive Indian Balsam (Impatiens glandulifera)
Another view of the path.
Lots of Rosebay Willowherb (Chamerion angustifolium)
This is the dry river bed of the Manifold.
In anything other than very wet weather the river disappears into swallowholes and flows through caves and subterranean passages and reappears at Ilam further downstream.
Lady’s-mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris agg.)
Field Scabious (Knautia arvensis)
A wonderfully gnarled and twisted tree.
Cinquefoil. I think this is probably Creeping Cinquefoil but the leaves in the photo aren’t quite what I expect from Creeping Cinquefoil.
Hill and valley. We had left the old rail-track behind us.
Musk Thistle (Carduus nutans) with its drooping flower-heads
A black-faced lamb
Richard walking along the track
Creeping Thistle (Cirsium arvense)
It was about this stage in our walk that we missed a landmark and went up a hill on the wrong side of a wall.
A stream
Tufted Forget-me-not (Myosotis laxa)
Small Heath butterfly (Coenonympha pamphilus)
I took a photo of this house little realising that we should have gone past it and then climbed the hill.
‘You’re on the wrong side of the wall, you fools!’, said the sheep.
I took a photo of this sheep tunnel (note my shadow) little realising we could have used it to get onto the right side of the wall!
The wall. We little realised we could have climbed over it at this point.
View from the hillside
Another view
Sun setting behind a hill
It was here that it dawned on us we were heading for the wrong valley.
We re-traced our steps right back to the house I had photographed earlier.
Rock Stonecrop (Sedum forsterianum). This specimen was probably a garden escapee as the plant is only native in the SW of England.
I am not sure what this plant is. I think it might be Bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) but I am not sure. My guide says that the emergent leaves of Bogbean have the texture and appearance of broad bean leaves which I would say these do. However….
Knotgrass (Polygonum aviculare)
And that was the last photo I took you’ll be pleased to know. Only when we got back to the house and saw that the correct path went up the same, long, steep hill that we had just climbed and then come down again, but on the other side of that wall that we realised exactly what we had done and what we still had to do. I must admit that our hearts sank and we suddenly felt very tired. We did it though; and got back to the car before the sun set. We were tempted to have a meal in the pub but thought how late we would get back to our caravan if we did so. We were very thankful to find the car and then return to the caravan site.
Thanks for visiting!
Apologies for the length of the post.
New Hampshire Garden Solutions said:
That was a great hike with lots of flowers that I’ve never heard of like the musk thistle and meadow vetchling.
It’s too bad you couldn’t make it to Thor’s cave. It must be fun to explore.
Seeing the spleenwort would have made it worthwhile for me!
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Allen I would love to have been able to get into that cave! I was most jealous of Richard! I managed to see spleenwort twice this summer having never seen (or recognised it) before. This plant near the cave was very small – about 1.5 inches across and the little fronds were about half an inch long. The one I saw in the Lake District was quite a bit bigger – about 6 inches across.
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New Hampshire Garden Solutions said:
I’ve never been in a real cave like that one so I would have jumped at the chance too.
Spleenworts are rare here so I’d love to see one of any size. I think they’re a beautiful fern.
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Vevdronningen said:
Sorry to hear about your mother in law… I love the photos and the stories you tell, it takes me back a bit to when we used to come to the north, ferry from Norway to Newcastle, summers of camping in endless rain, really only to explore the nature that is very similar to our own 🙂 But both the kids and we got to work on both the language and culture 🙂 Hope you are fine, and enjoying life. Thanks for likes and comments, means a lot! 🙂
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you! Your camping holidays sound like the camping holidays of my youth! We always holidayed in Britain and had plenty of rain too! We are fine – hope you are too. I love your photographs!
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Jill Weatherholt said:
Wow…a station at the cave? These photos are magnificent, Clare. The first two should be framed. It looks like those steps were a good workout. 🙂
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Jill. Yes, a station; so all the tourists at the beginning of the 20th century could see the sights. There is nothing left of it now.
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Jane said:
I’m so sorry that your walks were saddened by the sudden loss of your mother-in-law but thank you for sharing this beautiful and interesting mix. I’m not sure I could fit through those stiles as I am very pear shaped with short legs! Squashy is certainly the word for them! Had to smile at the “many hazards” pic and the comments from the sheep. 😀 We have nothing like those stone walls here.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Jane! Trying to get through those stiles is agony! Each time I see one I wish that I had dieted and exercised a little more thoroughly! We don’t have stone walls here where I live either. The skill involved in making those dry-stone walls is phenomenal!
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Thom Hickey said:
Thanks. A marvellous journey for me – as I got to see all those glories of nature without any of the aching muscles! Regards Thom.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Thom! Surprisingly, despite being exhausted when we had finished the walk, I don’t remember feeling at all achy the next day. We must have done something right after all.
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Thom Hickey said:
Reward for bravery!
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clarepooley33 said:
😀
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Julie said:
Loved the length of your post Clare, I felt as if I had walked with you and the Peak District tourist board, you have me sold on a visit there. I would of stayed outside of the cave too as I cant do enclosed spaces and you had me laughing at the squash stiles. Your journey looked both peaceful and invigorating, that seems so appropriate on the week of your sad news.
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clarepooley33 said:
You are too kind! Thank-you Julie. I was pleased we had decided to stay for the week. We recalled all the times Richard’s mum had travelled to see us for the day from Manchester and the walking was so therapeutic. I hope you and your family are feeling a little better after your recent bereavement.
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Julie said:
Thanks Clare, yes life is getting to a new normal now, my Mother in Law has been here for lunch today, she is fortunate to have several siblings who look out for her and share memories too.
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clarepooley33 said:
I am glad x
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womanseyeview said:
An ambitious walk for sure. What an amazing cave – the shot with you at the mouth really showed the scale of it.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you! The walk would have been perfect if we hadn’t had to climb that hill twice!
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tootlepedal said:
My brother enjoys walking in the Manifold Valley but I bet that he doesn’t see as many flowers as you do.
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clarepooley33 said:
I apologise for not thanking you for this kind comment. I have just found it and can’t think why I hadn’t seen it before.
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tootlepedal said:
Thank you for taking the time to reply now.
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Lavinia Ross said:
A lovely countryside to take comfort in! So many beautiful photos.
I have a fondness for caves, and have taken the Mammoth Cave Wild Cave Tour way back when – 6 hr, 6 mile underground with helmet and miner’s light, and knee pads. I don’t know if they do that anymore.
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clarepooley33 said:
I am sorry for not replying to this kind comment of yours earlier. I don’t know why I hadn’t seen it before. That Wild Cave Tour sounds wonderful!
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Lavinia Ross said:
No worries, Clare. It’s getting harder now with Mom, and therefore harder for me to get around to everyone’s posts myself.
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clarepooley33 said:
I do feel for you. I send my love thoughts and prayers.
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Draws Shoots and Leaves said:
Lovely part of the country and great photos, it is amazing what you see when you start to look.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Sue. Yes, you’re right – there is so much to see.
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greytabby1 said:
Clare, I know I have said this before but I am so glad I found your blog because I miss England so much and I really feel that you are taking me on a wonderful walk through different parts of the English countryside when I read it. This walk was absolutely beautiful – what a gorgeous part of the world. I loved the Roaches and the lovely views over the valley of the River Manifold, and then the amazing Thor’s cave! I was going to ask about those steps and then you explained about the railway line and station that had been there, so that made sense! All the wildflowers were lovely especially the Harebells and the Jacob’s Ladder. I also loved the funny picture of the sheep and the cute little black faced lamb.
Just wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing it with everyone.
Kate
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Kate! I would miss home so much too if I had to move abroad. I really wanted to move to Germany or Austria when I was in my late teens and nearly did but things didn’t work out. I wonder if I would still be there if I had done as I’d intended!
Your garden is so beautiful and I am sure the only way I could comfort myself and cope with living away from home would be to garden too.
Sheep are great fun but we discovered some years ago that they can get a bit boisterous at times. We were having a picnic lunch while on a walk in the Lake District when we were surrounded by a number of sheep desperate for our sandwiches! They wouldn’t take no for an answer and we had to eat fast and then escape! Apparently sheep love bread!
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greytabby1 said:
You are probably right about moving abroad and that you may never have returned – life just works out that way sometimes. I think that gardening is definitely a way of making a connection to home. I love your sheep story! Haha! There was I thinking sheep were so shy….!
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markspitzerdesigns said:
Quite the unintended adventure
Lovely countryside you get to enjoy
And such a peaceful former railroad walking trail
We have rails-to-trails programs here,
but they can often be contentious.
And the results are often more muscular
and not so well integrated into the landscape.
cid:image001.jpg@01C9B630.AE052CF0
don’t forget, my new email is: markspitzerdesigns@comcast.net
Mark Spitzer
2106 Fifth Avenue West
Seattle WA 98119
206 283 8397
Read my blog: Travel Design Impressions at:
http://markspitzerdesigns.wordpress.com
P please consider the environment before printing this email
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Mark. There is some contention with a few of our trails made from former railways. Rail travel is being promoted as being ‘greener’ than car travel and there are quite a few restoration groups that wish to reinstate the railway lines on these light rail tracks. Light rail tracks were quite narrow and the speed limit was about 15 mph so when it was built the changes that had to be made to the landscape were minimal.
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colorpencil2014 said:
In times of sadness, Mother Nature brings so much comfort and time to process. A beautiful hike indeed, thank you for sharing, xo Johanna
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Johanna. Yes you are perfectly right! xo Clare
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lundygirl said:
I hope you avoided all the hazards the cows had left for you to navigate. Going the wrong way and having to retrace your step is awful on a long walk. 😦
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clarepooley33 said:
Thanks Rachel! Yes, we managed to tip-toe through unscathed! We could definitely have done without the extra couple of hilly miles!
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quietsolopursuits said:
Now I know why this post wouldn’t load while I was having Internet problems, so many amazing photos to see! I loved them all, from the landscapes to the flowers to the lamb. I lied the cave too, sorry that you weren’t able to go inside after climbing all those stairs to get there.
We have some limestone rock formations in the northeast part of the state, but no caves. We have karst sinkholes, where the ground falls into the spaces below in the limestone where water has eroded the rock.
It was enlightening to see these sights from your part of the world, I learn a little more with each post.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you Jerry – and apologies for the size of the post. I was really annoyed at not being able to climb up to the cave entrance!
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lavendermoongirlblog said:
Sorry to hear about the death of your mother in law. Your post is rather beautiful, I feel like I was walking with you. Take care.
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clarepooley33 said:
Thank-you!
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Ste J said:
A sheep that sounds like Mr T, that is awesome! I do love the Peak District, so much variation in the landscape and that cave is wonderful!
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clarepooley33 said:
A sheep not to be messed with! I was so annoyed that I couldn’t climb up into the cave!!
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Charlotte Hoather said:
What a lovely ramble, I’m at my parents this weekend I hope the weathers good so we can go out 😊
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clarepooley33 said:
I’m sorry not to have replied to this kind comment before. I seem not to have seen a number of comments for this post – I don’t know why. I hope you were able to enjoy your stay at home. Best wishes Clare x
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